The Masai, at least those I met, use English first names and Masai middle and last names.  For example the camp manager at Rekero Homes, with his back to us above, is Jackson Looseyia, the guide directly across from him is Fredrick Ronko, and the third person is guide William Rotiken.  This took some getting used to for me, but henceforth in these stories I will be calling my Masai guides by their first names.  Besides the Rekero guides, I had two wonderful guides at Saruni camp, where I stayed for three nights, John and Lemeria.

The photo above was taken by me after my first day of game drives with Fred and William.  Jackson came to meet me, and he returned to have meals with me that second day, as camp hosts often, but not always, do.  It’s hard to communicate the level of conversation with these guys, both in the vehicles and at meals.  They are brilliant, charming, and thoughtful.  I chatted easily and fell into the American way of making everyone a colleague.  Thus is was a shock to discover that my new friend and mentor-in-the-bush Fredrick had two wives and seven daughters.  I didn’t take well to this information.  However I kept talking and what I found out was interesting.  What follows are some simple notes; as you will see I got to know all the folks who guided me much better over the week I lived in the Masai Mara; I became close to them and both they and I changed in the process.  I think they would agree about that; I’ll find out in the comments!  (Hi, Fred, William, and Jackson).

Fred’s first marriage was arranged by his father/parents and he said he wasn’t ready.  “I want to see your children” said his father and he was so angry at Fred’s refusal that Fred finally gave in.  He had a small house, a room maybe, which they lived in (usually the new wife lives with her inlaws for a while.)  The father said “We have cattle, what more do you need”

The babies started coming right away.  Fred has done well (14 years as guide at Rekero) and last year or so he married his second wife, who was waitressing at Rekero Tented Camp.  This marriage he did not discuss with his parents, but married for love.  They have one 2 mo old daughter.  Fred buys cattle, one or two every year and adds them to the family herd.  His father is very happy with him now and does not question what he does.

The herd is the family herd but Fred knows which are his cattle.

I guess one change for me was to think about my own pattern of life and marriage.  Married and a child in my twenties; divorce.  Harry has married twice more; the second marriage yielded three daughters who are Greta’s beloved sisters.  So, um, what’s my problem with multiple marriages again?  That in America the first wife is often thrown off by her husband for a younger woman and receives no support or recognition in her community?  This does not happen with the Masai; the first wife is honored in her community; often it’s the younger wife who has trouble making a place for herself.  Am I striking any chords with anyone out there? 

Jackson wants us to open the door to Africa, says the resources here have hardly been tapped partly because of violence and trouble which has made the West avoid Africa.  So what’s here is still here.  Oil, gold, diamonds, minerals.  US firms should have African partners so the locals will learn the techniques.  Obama has made US presence here felt strongly, especially recently.

He says of course we don’t want to pour money into a black hole.

China is a powerful force in Africa.  They buy everything which comes available and they have money.  They bid for any contract at 30% less than anyone else and they do a good job.  However they do not care about the environment; poaching is a problem with their projects; their custom is to eat virtually anything, protected or not.  This has gotten a little better lately but Chinese indifference to environmental conditions is still a concern.

I think that for the US to allow China to take this position in Africa is short-sighted to say the least.  I don’t know what our options are; this is beyond my sphere of knowledge and our ability to invest is doubtless not what it once was.  However I am reasonably sure we could and should play a larger role in Africa, from the point of view of enlightened self-interest.  I was pleased that US citizens have a good rap as visitors to Africa at least where I was.  This was the same in Bhutan, by the way.  We are reported to be -- flexible.